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Saturday, August 4, 2012

Medieval Clothing For Women

900-1000

Medieval clothing for women of the early period still had trace elements of ancient Greek and Roman fashion. In this century there was still celebration of the female form. Tight fitting garments known as kirtles were worn down to the ankles. Shirts were worn over the tunics and when in public, women would drape shorter kirtle over the longer one. Tunics were also worn without sleeves. Clothing reached high up to the neck. Veils were worn which draped over the front and back of the head which covered the neck. Noblewomen wore an extra cloak draped over the normal tunic ensemble which was usually lined with ermine.

1000-1100

Medieval clothing for women in 11th century still retained most of the elements of garments from the previous centuries including two layered tunics. The outer tunic was usually white in color and the longer tunics were usually a different color to make nice mismatch ensemble. The longer tunic was worn under the shorter one with a girdle holding both tunics in place above the waist. Sleeves were tight and reached to the wrists and were often pleated with various folds. Decorative bands encircling the end of the wrists and lower end of the dress and neckline. Veils were longer than the previous century, usually reaching down to the ankles.

1100-1200

Medieval clothing for women in the 12th century is the beginning stages of what would become fashionable in the renaissance period of later centuries. Head pieces now consisted of linen caps that could be decorated and furnished in all sorts of ways and veil-like garments called lappets would often drape over the head or around the neck. Women also wore bands that would tie under the chain and properly frame the face. Robes become popular around this period, but not the robes we think of today; these medieval robes were loose fitting and clung beautifully to the female form. They would be held in place with buckles and decorative bands. Cloaks were also popular for women. Surcoats were often worn around the upper portion of the body for women and could be draped around the shoulders and head, almost forming a cape except more closely fitted. Later in the century surcoats would be worn with no sleeves. Pointed shoes became popular around this time with proper binding that would retain the shape of the foot.

1200-1300

Medieval clothing for women of the 13th century had now reached luxurious heights. The so called dark phase of the medieval period was beginning to see a glimmer of light. Robes became gowns and were usually buttoned in the front and tight fitting around the sleeves with slits for breathing room. Shoes were still pointed. Gold, pearls and gemstones became part of a woman’s ensemble with pointed caps and curly locks being in vogue. Women wore belts made of gold and adorned with precious stones. Women plaited their hair in long form, almost like a rope and would be adorned with sorts of jewels. Think of princess Rapunzel and you’ll have a good idea of what this century of fashion was like.

1300-1400

Medieval clothing for women of the 14the century had now reached the renaissance phase and became more elaborate and complicated. Surcoats became longer often reaching below the waist and to the ground in the form of a cape. Overcoats became fashionable but were open which revealed the layering of under clothes which blended harmoniously with a woman’s ensemble. Hats were wired and adorned with pearls and other jewels. Silk nets were made to keep the hair in place. Harkening back to the old Roman Empire, women began to wear wigs or added layering to their normal hair with horse hair. These headpieces and nets do wonders when it came to concealing artificial hair. The beginning of the corset was also in fashion during this period which was used on both the front and back portions of the body. Busks were made of steel held the corset in place and was made of silk for the summer and fur during the winter. They were not as restrictive in later centuries and would come to hold the bust in place. This period was the beginning of women facing restrictive devices such as busks and corsets to keep the ideal female form.

1400-1500

Medieval clothing for women of the 15th century saw massive departures from previous centuries. Catherine De Medici, queen consort to Henry II of France would play a large role is shaping European fashion during this time. Sleeves were now widened, embroidered and hung loose. Clothing became tightened for women around the waist with more cushioning around the hips and this was done with whalebone and steel. Farthingales would also become fashionable which were skirt skeletal frames often made of whalebone that would come to give definition to a woman’s skirt. Women’s dresses had shorter trains. Necklines were low to display necklaces. Women would see the introduction of the bonnet to hold in place large layered rolls of headdresses and the conical bonnet would hold them in place. This bonnet was unlike that Victorian bonnet that would cover the sides of the face, but a high vertical bonnet that could also be adorned with veils and jewels. It was clothing of this period that would come to define later centuries on the European fashion scene.

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